Today in the Kitchen: The 2009 Beaujolais Nouveau is coming

The third Thursday of November marks the release of the first wines of the vintage year in France - Beaujolais Nouveau. The event has become a national obsession in France, with trucks ready at midnight to deliver to establishments in Paris and to shippers around the world.

It is a triumph of marketing and promotion, creating immediate sale of wine and return on investment versus the traditional aging methods and associated costs.

The region of Beaujolais is 34 miles long and 7 to 9 miles wide. There are nearly 4,000 grape growers in this picturesque region just north of France’s third largest city, Lyon. It contains the appellations of Beaujolais and Beaujolais-Villages.

Beaujolais Nouveau is a wine made fast to drink immediately, while the better Beaujolais is taking a more leisurely course. It is technically termed Beaujolais Primeur because by French rules, a wine released during the period between its harvest and a date in the following spring is termed primeur. A wine released during the period between its harvest and the following year’s harvest is termed nouveau.

How it is made: Hand harvesting is mandatory; the must (juice and skins) is pressed after only a few days of whole berry maceration and natural fermentation. The wine then goes through a malo-lactic fermentation in which the malic acid in the grapes is converted to lactic acid. The phenolic compounds, in particular the astringent tannins normally found in red wines, aren’t there, leaving an easy-to-drink fruit wine.

Gamay (Gamay noir ˆ Jus Blanc) is the only grape permitted for Beaujolais Nouveau. While certain California wineries may label their wine “Gamay Beaujolais,” this is not the same grape variety, and is quite different in taste and growing habits. Some wineries in California making Nouveau-style wines use Pinot Noir, Valdigui/, and Zinfandel Nouveau grapes.

How it is served: Average vintages should be consumed by the May following release. However, in excellent vintages (such as 2000) the wine can live much longer and can be enjoyed until the next harvest rolls around. This wine tastes best when chilled to around 55 degrees.

Because of its fresh, fruity style and the timing of its release, Beaujolais Nouveau has become a Thanksgiving tradition in this country. It pairs well with turkey and the fixings such as cranberry relish. It is light enough to offset the tendency to overeat at the feast, and it is a refreshing entr/e to the holiday season.

Samaya Jones is a Holistic Nutritional Consultant and Natural Foods Personal Chef, who cooks for you and your guests in your home. She writes for health Web sites, newspapers, and teaches wine education classes. She can be reached at ncsamayaj@gmail.com.