From the Editor: Nogales: It’s a ghost town

Back when I had more time and inclination, I taught a college-level newswriting course.

I would drive home the importance of never assuming you know the story before you start reporting it.

Having said that, I went to Nogales, Mexico, on Saturday fully expecting to write a column that would prompt you to toss aside your newspapers and head over the border for lunch today.

Instead, I’m telling you not to bother. Not yet, anyway.

I’ve been to Nogales several times to people-watch, practice Spanish and buy fake Talavera pottery like everybody else.

On my last shopping trip, about three years ago, I was elbow to elbow with hundreds of Americanos doing the same thing. The streets were packed and shops were filled.

On Saturday, Nogales was all but a ghost town. We didn’t see an American until we got in line to cross back over.

One shop owner told me there were about 300 shops catering to tourists in the main shopping area a year ago; today there are 50. I’m not sure about his numbers, but the message was clear: Nogales is dying.

What’s the problem? The economy on both sides of the border, of course. And our A1 story on businesses in Nogales, Ariz., blames it in part on sensational media coverage of drug violence.

But safety, frankly, is not an issue in Nogales despite what you’ve heard. Unless you run drugs.

The real problem is that Nogales just isn’t interesting anymore. On Saturday, we found torn-up streets, desperate shopkeepers and few decent goods on the shelves.

It doesn’t help that we need passports or passport cards to get back into the U.S. Most Americans don’t have one and aren’t interested in spending $60-$100 for a card they’ll use once or twice in a lifetime.

And though Nogales is only 40 miles away, Tubac is closer and offers higher quality in a more inviting environment.

But while we’re talking about shopping in America, we should remember that Nogales, Ariz., too, has been hit hard, with about three dozen stores closing in the past year.

A funny sign we saw (above) might be one answer to saving the town: “Nogales Root Canal.” The area is catering to the medical and dental crowd.

But I hope Nogales returns as the touristy bright spot it once was. This might help:

Dump the passport requirement for Americans.

Get people through customs more quickly. We waited a half-hour, and we were lucky. (See photo.)

Clean up Nogales, Mexico.

Market Nogales, Ariz., and give tourists another reason to head south. It’s a beautiful little town.

I’ll be heading back to Nogales, and I hope I’m surprised again. I just hope it’s a bit more pleasant this time.

— Dan Shearer